Fashion Bite for On|Off

Belle Sauvage draws on industrial imagery for autumn winter

Saturday, February 20th, 2010

Belle Sauvage, the label from emerging design duo Virginia Ferreira and Christian Neuman, delivered a strong and powerful collection moved by industrial imagery found in German expressionism.

Belle Sauvage, known for its signature digital prints, offered an amalgamation of classic/ futuristic drawings and heavy machinery prints for autumn winter. Distinct, contrasting styles are found throughout the collection, as hard structured leather meets soft silk chiffon, crepe and jersey. H.R. Giger, a leader of the fantastic realism movement, is the muse.

The show had a mechanical feel to it, the models walked slowly, almost like robots and the music was very industrial-esque. The hair and make-up looked amazing (apparently the hair alone took 2 weeks to do!) The braided side plaits resembled a machine chain, in keeping with the theme of the show.

Outfits dazzle at Julian J Smith

Saturday, February 20th, 2010

Front row outfits dazzled at Julian J Smith this season as the designer injected ’70′s style geometric prints and a riot of colour into his autumn winter collection.

Front row style

Designers Rhianion Jones and Peter Dixon (far left) both wear their own labels Bolshie and Izras Lee respectively. Celia Arias (right) wears a hat and jacket by Prangsta costumiers, a necklace by Coco and All Saints t-shirt. Britt Cormack (left) wears a vintage jacket and woolen scarf/coat by Hurwendki.

Julian J Smith told Fashionbite for OnOff: “Following on from spring/summer’s use of colour-blocking and striking prints, these elements are maintained as a prominent theme for this season.

“However, silhouettes are getting stronger, emphasized with more use of black. I have chosen to use non-typical accent colours for winter, such as vivid turquoise, baby pink and acid green. The print designs have a strong, simplified, graphic look inspired by Navajo textiles. The feeling of the collection is svelte, dark, pagan and witchy.”

Julian J Smith stockist and Start London owner Brix Smith Start said: “I’m really excited about the show. I stock Julian J Smith and I’m a huge supporter. I’m hoping to see colour.” After the show, Brix said: “I loved the first few dresses, the prints remind me of a TV losing control of its brain waves.”

Bryce Aime looks to Ancient Egypt for autumn

Saturday, February 20th, 2010

Bryce Aime’s Ancient Egyptian-inspired collection drew an impressive crowd. British singer and musician Jamie Scott was snapped on the front row, alongside a packed audience who dressed to impress.


Bryce brought Ancient Egypt back to life for a collection of mummification inspired pieces.

Graphic prints resembling bandages appeared on the catwalk in red wine and ash grey and the models’ hair was wrapped in turbans and bandages.

Tarnished metallic colours, exaggerated zip detailing, layered textures and side draping were all key to the collection.

The final pieces were quite futuristic in shape, resembling building blocks from the pyramids or possibly an intentional juxtaposition against the ancient heritage?

On|Off’s Lee Lapthorne on his highlights so far

Saturday, February 20th, 2010

“Moving to a new venue has been a refreshing experience- we’ve had a fantastic response,” said On|Off creative director Lee Lapthorne.

“Highlights so far have been people’s reactions to the McQueen wall, [see On|Off pays tribute to 'Alexander the Great'].

“People think it’s a beautiful, subtle and moving tribute- without being in your face. Show-wise, On|Off Presents was fantastic last night. It was a strong, powerful show, a real London/edge show. There was a great buzz in the air.”

On|Off’s Presents featured four fabulous designers; Samantha Cole, Txell Miras, Mister + Mister and Derek Lawlor (left and below).

Head buyers from Burberry, Asos and Feathers were all spotted on the front row.

Feathers’ Tiffany Hsu said: “I loved the show, it was very dramatic.”

Lee said he is looking forward to the J.Maskrey comeback tonight and the On|Off party afterwards. (Keep posted for pics and gossip!)

He said: “We’re known for our parties and with Neneh Cherry on the decks, it’s going to be amazing.

Lee added: “I’m also looking forward to Pam Hogg and Roksanda Ilincic.

“In the exhibition space, we’ve got a strong unit of designers who have all got that commercial edge.”

Ashley Isham channels Flash Gordon with red carpet collection

Saturday, February 20th, 2010


Propelled into the world of Flash Gordon, models strutted down the catwalk at Ashley Isham like a troop of elite female warriers, draped in luxurious robes of chiffon, liquid jersey and layers of flowing silk tulle. I’m hoping for a red carpet invite soon purely so I can wear one, these dresses are paparazzi heaven!

Eagerly awaiting the start of the show, epic Harry potter-style music played loudly in the background, creating an intense, exciting atmosphere before the show opened.

Soft alluring looks soon made way for powerful showpieces. Armour-style jackets with strong embellishment juxtaposed against soft, flowing Grecian-style gowns. A futuristic material mix included PVC in tints of purple, grey and blue trimmed with gold binding and black fringing.

Majestic couture pieces in molton bronze and deep violet set the scene for a victorious finale procession.

Front row seats were filled by Jodie Harsh and Sophie Anderton. Jodie is pictured below being interviewed for OnOff TV.

Ramon Gurillo delights with striking knitwear

Saturday, February 20th, 2010

Spidery open dresses, intricate loose knit weaves and chunky coatigans sashayed down the catwalk at Ramon Gurillo’s stunning autumn winter collection.

The collection, entitled ‘Where the Birds Always Sing,’ mixes Ramon’s signature styling of post punk rock and roll style to technically intricate knitwear designs. The result is a sexy, elegant collection for the modern, urban woman with bags of personality and style.

Key colours include winter white, pearl grey, charcoal, vampire red, bronze, gold and ink blue. The collection uses fine merino wools, alpaca, llama, silks and cottons with strong cocoon-like shapes as signature silhouettes.

Ramon said his inspiration came from the album ‘Bloodflowers’ by The Cure. He told Fashionbite for OnOff: “The music is so rich and atmospheric. Its poetry is apocalyptic, its beauty dark and refined and I wanted to bring this into my new collection.”

Does he have a favourite standout piece? “Yes, it has to be the amazing long black lace-crochet dress, a landmark piece in my career.”

He certainly impressed the audience, Laura Starling and Becky Mackay-Miller, both marketing executives from London, thought the collection was fantastic.

Becky said: “I never knew knitwear could look so sexy and elegant. I loved the black jumper dress that came out last. You often think of knitwear as old baggy jumpers, but I was really impressed, you’d really stand out from the crowd wearing one of his pieces.”

Charlie Le Mindu shocks with occult spectacular

Friday, February 19th, 2010

Charlie Le Mindu opened On|Off this season in true Le Mindu style, with a haute-coiffure spectacular that left the audience speechless.

Charlie, who has been styling hair since the age of 13, works real human hair into couture creations and his shows are always a must-see for their sheer extravagance. This one did not disappoint!

Inspired by cults, religious sects and the occult, Charlie dominated the catwalk with diamante crucifixes, veils made from twisted hair, gothic lace and black body paint.

Musician La Roux was snapped on the front row, along with some fantastic outfits spotted on the crowd. Art Director Mark Cornell, who helped Charlie build the incredible wig installations, sat nervously before the start and said he hoped the huge hair pieces would stay in place for the duration of the show.

Chatting to the audience after, the reaction was unanimous. Saga Kim, a journalist from London, said: “The show was fantastic. I saw Charlie Le Mindu last season through Youtube, it’s a shame I couldn’t make it, but this season is quite different. It is avant-garde with the dark body paint and pearl make-up. I like the way he put back alongside blue, he is unique.”

On|Off launches in Bloomsbury Square

Friday, February 19th, 2010

On|Off for London Fashion Week kicked off this morning in a fabulous art gallery-inspired space at Victoria House, Bloomsbury Square.

The stunning space, which features a stuffed deer and striking ceiling sculpture in the entrance (made entirely from hand cut paper), will host four days of catwalk shows, designer exhibitions and fashion installations to showcase London Fashion Week’s new and emerging design talent for autumn/winter 2010.


Fashionbite for On|Off will be bringing you all the highlights…so keep posted.

On|Off launches pop-up shop for charity

Thursday, February 18th, 2010

On|Off is launching a pop-up shop with a conscience this season called ‘Thought of the Day’, to help raise money for the children of Haiti.

The stripped back industrial space will sell limited edition designer t-shirts, house a fashion installation curated by The Convenience Store and host live accoustic performances from a selection of artists.

Designers such as Jasper Conran, PPQ and J Maskrey have lent a hand to the t-shirts, kindly donated by Edun Live. T-shirts have been printed with a ‘Thought of the Day’ from one of the 10 designers chosen for the project and will retail at £30. Only 100 t-shirts have been produced in the first run, customers will be able to order additional t-shirts for delivery.

All profits from the shop will go to children’s charity Plan UK.

Thought of the Day

19 – 22 February 2010
Unit 6, 37 – 63 Southampton Row
London WC1B 4DA

Opening Hours:

Fri 19 Feb: 12.00 – 19.00
Sat 20 Feb: 10.00 – 19.00
Sun 21 Feb: 10.00 – 16.00
Mon 22 Feb: 10.00 – 19.00

For more information, see OnOff.

Fashionbite for On|Off.

On|Off pays tribute to ‘Alexander the Great’

Thursday, February 18th, 2010

On|Off has joined forces with Catwalking.com, the picture agency which specialises in catwalk photography, to create an installation celebrating the work of great British designer Lee Alexander McQueen.

The installation, which launches tomorrow at On|Off for London Fashion Week, consists of a wall display imbedded with forty ipod’s.

The ipods will feature hundreds of images taken from Catwalking.com’s extensive archives, including McQueen’s own label menswear and womenswear collections and from his time at Givenchy.

The fashion world has been rocked by the sudden and shocking death of Lee Alexander McQueen, re-named ‘Alexander the great’ by his mentor and patron, the late Isabella Blow.

Tributes have been flooding in from across the fashion world in the last few weeks and there will be a sombre cloud hanging over London Fashion Week this season. However, it’s also a time to celebrate and to remember the creative genius of McQueen, a talent that inspired so many.

Alexander McQueen was a maverick of the fashion world, a designer who pushed boundaries and loved to shock. His runway shows, described as ‘disturbing, beautiful and provocative,’ were theatrical masterpieces. He went on to win British Designer of the Year four times in a row.

On|Off director Lee Lapthorne said: “I just wanted to do something -something to show that we respect him and his inspiration to so many of our designers. The wall will give people an opportunity to reflect and remember.”

Catwalking.com founder Chris Moore added: “It is such an understatement to say that fashion will be suffering a great loss at the death of Lee McQueen…I can’t remember a single presentation of his collections that didn’t outright thrill me. The journey I have shared along this enthralling path can be seen in the amazing stream of visual treasure that he left in his wake.”

The display has been created by product designer Michael Warren.

Fashionbite for On|Off